There is just something Kitschy and wrong about the vast majority of chain Mexican restaurants in this country. I recently went to dinner with the fam at a place called “”On the Border” out in the newer, flashier part of Vancouver. What border they are referring to, I have no idea, since the closest border is about 300 miles north of there and is better known for its Marijuana smuggling and the Winter Olympics than it is for its high-powered tequila or salsa.
Regardless, we went to dinner there because it beat the pants off of the drive-through called “Pollo Loco,” resplendent with the image of some kind of crazed seabird and, judging by the cracks in the windows and the particularly low amount of general upkeep, cockroaches the size of my fist. On the border is one of those restaurants that allows the quest for “AUTHENTIC” atmosphere to get i the way of things like “good taste” and “comfort.”
Upon entering I was bombarded with a crappy pseudo-house remix of Low Rider blasting out of the poor quality speakers and a waaaaay to perky waitress asking to show us to our tables. We were seated at a table with would have been kind of nice had it not been for the over-zealous lighting designer who had taken it upon herself to individually light each table with its own 30 million-lumen arc-light.
Squinting across the table I glanced at the laminated and tri-folded menus full of “AUTHENTIC” mexican creations the likes of which I had never seen in a real Mexican restaurant. These menus were the kind that made you think that real mexicans wrote with markers and spelled all of the words they wanted emphasized in jagged, bright yellow strokes.
I ordered a grilled chicken enchilada – which turned out to be more of a Taco-Bell crunch wrap with better chicken – from a man with an obvious crack habit (but who was wearing the requisite amount of flair, so I won’t rag on him too much.) I gazed around me and was amazed at the amount of thought that had gone into the creation of AUTHENTIC atmosphere here. Fired ceramic vessels were all over the place, as were plastic trees and flowers that served to brighten up the otherwise poorly lit areas between the tables. There were nice pictures on the walls of ordinary Mexicans in ordinary Mexican towns – as long as you have never been to Mexico and don’t know that they have some of the largest, dirtiest cities in the world – doing ordinary Mexican things – like sitting against the wall or sleeping… seriously. The walls were the requisite color of adobe and there were enough neon tubes and Margarita glasses near the bar area to do Jimmy Buffet proud.
I ate my food which, to the credit of this place, was really pretty good. The waiter – along with the entire staff – checked on us every 13 seconds to make sure that things were good and to ask if we wanted desert.
While we were still eating.
Every 13 seconds.
For most of the meal.
I appreciate a restaurant with good service, especially a chain, where the best service you are likely to get is a waiter somewhere in the vicinity of your table every 30-40 minutes that you have to flag down with a signal lamp or road flare and who will be MORE than happy to help you… sometime in the next 30-40 minutes. That being said, if I’m eating the food and haven’t complained yet, it’s probably at least adequate, so let me eat my food and talk to the people that I am trying to eat with in peace.
All told the entire experience seemed cheap, and for the amount of money they charge to get your frijoles, one would think that they could come up with something better than signage that says banjo and looks like it was printed on someone’s Lexmark and glued to a piece of driftwood.